Every RV trip should start with a walk-around inspection. Not a glance. Not a gut feeling. A deliberate, systematic check of every system that keeps your motorhome, fifth wheel, or travel trailer safe on the road. The 20 minutes you spend inspecting before you leave can prevent the 8 hours you spend on the side of the highway waiting for a tow truck.

Most roadside RV breakdowns are caused by things the owner could have caught before they left. A tire that was low on pressure. A brake pad that was already worn thin. A coolant level that was dropping. A battery that was barely holding a charge. None of these fail without warning. They all give signs that a pre-trip inspection catches.

Tires

Check the pressure on every tire including the spare using a calibrated gauge, not a visual estimate. RV tires should be inflated to the pressure listed on the tire sidewall or the manufacturer's placard on the vehicle, not the number in your owner's manual for a passenger car. Check for cracks in the sidewall, bulges, uneven wear, and any objects embedded in the tread. Look at the DOT date code on the sidewall to confirm the tires are less than 7 years old. RV tires degrade from UV and ozone even when they are sitting still, and a tire that looks fine can have internal degradation that makes it unsafe at highway speeds under load.

Brakes

If your RV has disc brakes, visually inspect the pad thickness through the wheel spokes. If the pads are less than a quarter inch thick, they need replacement before a long trip. Listen for any squealing or grinding during your first few stops after pulling out. On towable RVs with electric brakes, test the brake controller to make sure the trailer brakes engage properly. If the trailer pushes the tow vehicle when you stop, the trailer brakes are not functioning correctly.

Fluids

Check the engine oil level and condition. If the oil is dark, gritty, or past its change interval, change it before you leave. Check the coolant level in the overflow reservoir and look for any signs of leaks under the vehicle. Check the transmission fluid level and color. Healthy transmission fluid is pink or red. Dark brown or burnt smelling fluid needs attention. Check the brake fluid reservoir. If it is low, you either have a leak or your brake pads are worn. Top off the windshield washer fluid.

Battery

Test the chassis battery voltage. A fully charged battery should read 12.6 volts or higher. Anything below 12.2 volts means the battery is significantly discharged and may not start the engine reliably, especially in hot weather. Clean any corrosion from the terminals. If your RV has a house battery, check that as well. An RV that has been sitting for weeks or months may have batteries that have self-discharged below safe levels.

Lights

Turn on every light on the vehicle and walk around to verify they work. Headlights, tail lights, brake lights, turn signals, running lights, reverse lights, and clearance lights. On towable RVs, have someone press the brake pedal and activate the turn signals while you check the trailer. A burned out brake light or turn signal on a trailer is a safety hazard and a ticket waiting to happen.

Belts and Hoses

Open the hood and visually inspect the serpentine belt for cracks, fraying, or glazing. Squeeze the radiator hoses. They should feel firm but flexible. A hose that feels soft, mushy, or swollen is at risk of bursting under pressure. A hose that feels hard and brittle has lost its elasticity and can crack. Santa Clarita Valley heat accelerates rubber degradation, so hoses that look marginal in spring can fail in summer.

The Items Most RV Owners Forget

Wheel lug nut torque. After any tire work or after the first 50 to 100 miles of a trip, verify that all lug nuts are torqued to the manufacturer specification. Loose lug nuts can cause wheel separation. Check the condition of your wiper blades. Test your horn. Verify that your fire extinguisher is charged and accessible. Check that your leveling jacks are fully retracted before driving. Confirm that all exterior compartments are latched and locked. And check your mirrors for proper adjustment before you pull out, not after you are on the freeway.

At Mike & Nick's, we perform complete pre-trip inspections for RVs of all types. If you want a professional set of eyes on your rig before you leave town, drive it in. Walk-ins are welcome 7 days a week.

The Santa Clarita Valley experiences some of the most extreme summer heat in Los Angeles County. Temperatures regularly exceed 100°F from June through September, with stretches of 110°F or higher not uncommon. If your RV is parked outside during these months, it is under constant assault from heat and UV radiation. If you are driving it, every mechanical system is working harder than it was designed to work under normal conditions. Understanding what heat does to your RV is the first step to preventing the failures it causes.

What Heat Does to Your Tires

Hot pavement dramatically increases tire temperature and internal pressure. A tire that was properly inflated at 6 AM can be 10 to 15 PSI over its rated pressure by mid-afternoon on a 105°F day. Overinflation reduces the contact patch, concentrates wear in the center of the tread, and increases the risk of a blowout, especially on RV tires that are already carrying heavy loads. Underinflated tires are even more dangerous in heat because the sidewall flexes excessively, generating internal heat that can cause the tire to fail catastrophically. Always check tire pressure in the morning before the tires have been in direct sun or driven on hot pavement.

UV radiation degrades the rubber compounds in your tires even when the RV is parked. The sidewalls dry out, crack, and lose structural integrity over time. This is why RV tires should be replaced every 5 to 7 years regardless of tread depth. If your RV sits in direct sun in the SCV, that degradation happens faster. Tire covers or shaded parking can extend tire life, but they do not eliminate the need for age-based replacement.

What Heat Does to Your Battery

Most people think cold weather kills batteries. In reality, heat is the number one cause of battery failure. Extreme temperatures accelerate the chemical reactions inside the battery, causing the electrolyte to evaporate faster, the internal plates to corrode more quickly, and the overall lifespan to shrink. A battery that would last 5 years in a moderate climate may last only 2.5 to 3 years in the Santa Clarita Valley. If your RV battery is more than 2 years old and you park in direct sun, get it tested before your next trip.

What Heat Does to Your Oil

Engine oil breaks down faster at higher temperatures. When ambient temperatures are 100°F or higher, the oil inside your engine is working at the upper limits of its thermal stability. Conventional oil degrades faster than synthetic in extreme heat, which is why synthetic oil is recommended for RVs in the SCV. Oil that has broken down loses its ability to lubricate, cool, and protect internal engine components. If your RV has been sitting in the heat for months, the oil may have degraded from heat exposure even without the engine running. Change it before your next trip.

What Heat Does to Your Cooling System

Your cooling system is designed to keep the engine at operating temperature, typically around 195°F to 220°F. When the air coming through the radiator is already 100°F or higher, the cooling system has less capacity to dissipate heat. Add the extra load of hauling a heavy RV up a grade, and the system is working at its limit. Old coolant, a partially clogged radiator, a weak water pump, or a thermostat that is slow to open can push the engine into the danger zone. A cooling system that works fine in March can overheat in July. Have it inspected before summer.

What Heat Does to Your Belts and Hoses

Rubber degrades faster in extreme heat. Serpentine belts crack, fray, and lose tension. Radiator hoses soften and swell. Heater hoses become brittle. A belt or hose that looks marginal in cooler months will fail when temperatures peak. The consequence of a belt failure is immediate loss of power steering, alternator, and water pump. The consequence of a hose failure is rapid coolant loss and engine overheating. Both can leave you stranded. Inspect every belt and hose before summer and replace anything that shows wear.

How to Protect Your RV in SCV Heat

Park in shade whenever possible. Use tire covers to block UV exposure. Keep your battery on a trickle charger if the RV is parked for extended periods. Use synthetic oil. Have the cooling system inspected and the coolant tested before summer. Check tire pressure weekly during hot months. Inspect belts and hoses before your first summer trip. And if anything looks marginal, replace it now. In the Santa Clarita Valley, marginal does not survive summer.

At Mike & Nick's, we see the same heat-related failures every summer. The ones that come in on a tow truck are almost always problems that could have been caught with a pre-season inspection. Bring your RV in before the heat hits and we will make sure it is ready.

RV tire blowouts are one of the most dangerous and most preventable failures on the road. A blowout at highway speed on a vehicle that weighs 10,000 to 30,000 pounds can cause loss of control, rollover, or collision. The debris from a blown RV tire can damage the undercarriage, fender, plumbing, and electrical systems of the RV itself. And in almost every case, the blowout was preventable.

When Should You Replace RV Tires?

RV tires should be replaced every 5 to 7 years regardless of tread depth. This is the single most important thing RV owners need to understand about their tires. Unlike passenger car tires that wear out from driving, RV tires often fail from age. Most RVs do not accumulate high mileage. They sit for weeks or months between trips, exposed to UV radiation, ozone, and temperature cycling. These environmental factors degrade the rubber compounds from the inside out. A tire can have full tread depth and still be structurally compromised because the rubber has dried out, cracked internally, and lost its ability to hold together under load at highway speeds.

To find the age of your tire, look for the DOT code on the sidewall. The last four digits represent the week and year the tire was manufactured. A code ending in 2219 means the tire was made in the 22nd week of 2019. If that code shows a date more than 7 years ago, the tire needs to be replaced regardless of how it looks or how much tread remains.

What Is the Difference Between ST and LT Tires?

ST stands for Special Trailer. These tires are engineered specifically for trailer applications. They have stiffer sidewalls to resist sway, higher load ratings for their size, and rubber compounds designed to handle the unique stresses of being towed rather than driven. ST tires are designed to follow, not steer. They are built to carry heavy loads in a straight line and resist the lateral forces that trailers experience.

LT stands for Light Truck. These tires are designed for vehicles that steer, accelerate, and brake. They have more flexible sidewalls for ride comfort and handling response. While LT tires can physically fit on a trailer axle, they are not designed for trailer use. The flexible sidewall that makes an LT tire comfortable on a truck makes it prone to sway and heat buildup on a trailer.

If your towable RV came with ST tires, replace them with ST tires. Do not switch to LT tires to save money or because someone told you they ride better. The stiffer sidewall of the ST tire is what keeps your trailer tracking straight behind your tow vehicle. An LT tire on a trailer is a compromise that introduces risk.

The Mistake That Causes More Blowouts Than Anything Else

Underinflation. It is not dramatic. It is not complicated. It is the most common and most dangerous mistake RV owners make with their tires. An underinflated tire flexes more than it should with every rotation. That flex generates heat inside the tire structure. Heat breaks down the rubber. The tire gets hotter. The rubber gets weaker. Eventually, the sidewall gives out and the tire fails catastrophically at highway speed.

RV tires operate under enormous loads. Even a 10% pressure drop below the recommended inflation puts significantly more stress on the tire than the same pressure drop on a passenger car tire. A tire rated for 3,500 pounds at 80 PSI may only safely carry 2,800 pounds at 65 PSI. If your RV is loaded to capacity and your tires are underinflated, you are overloading the tire even though the RV itself is within its weight rating.

Check your tire pressure before every trip. Check it in the morning before the tires have been in direct sun. Use a calibrated gauge, not a visual estimate. And inflate to the pressure on the tire sidewall or the RV manufacturer's placard, not the number from your passenger car manual. This one habit prevents more blowouts than any other single action you can take.

Other Tire Tips for RV Owners

Rotate your tires if your RV manufacturer recommends it. Not all RV configurations allow rotation, but those that do benefit from more even wear. Use tire covers when the RV is parked to protect against UV damage. Avoid parking on hot asphalt for extended periods, which accelerates rubber degradation from the bottom up. Inspect your tires for sidewall cracking, bulging, and uneven wear patterns every time you check the pressure. And never run a tire that has been driven flat, even for a short distance. The internal structure is compromised the moment it runs without air, and no amount of re-inflation makes it safe again.

At Mike & Nick's, we carry ST rated tires for towable RVs and the right tires for every motorhome platform. We check pressure, tread depth, sidewall condition, and the DOT age code on every tire. If your tires are approaching the 5 to 7 year mark, bring your RV in and we will show you exactly where they stand.

California is the best state in the country for RV travel and also the most demanding. Within a single trip you can go from sea level coastal highways to 4,000-foot mountain passes, from 60°F morning fog to 115°F desert heat, from smooth interstate to rough backcountry roads. Your RV needs to be ready for all of it, and the time to find out it is not ready is before you leave, not when you are 200 miles from the nearest shop.

The I-5 Corridor: Grapevine and Beyond

If your California road trip takes you north or south on the I-5, you will drive the Grapevine. This is one of the longest sustained grades on any major interstate in the state. Going northbound, the climb is steep and sustained, putting enormous load on your engine, transmission, and cooling system. Going southbound, the descent is equally demanding on your brakes. RV owners who ride their brakes down the Grapevine overheat their brake components, warp rotors, and risk brake fade. The correct technique is to downshift to a lower gear and use engine braking, applying the brakes only intermittently to control speed.

Before any trip that includes the Grapevine, have your brakes inspected. Check that your coolant is fresh and at the proper level. Verify your transmission fluid is clean and full. And make sure your engine is not already running warm before you start the climb. If your temperature gauge creeps above normal on flat ground, the Grapevine will push it into the red.

Desert Routes: Heat, Distance, and Isolation

If your trip takes you through the Mojave, out to Joshua Tree, through Death Valley, or across to Las Vegas, you are driving in extreme heat with long stretches between services. Temperatures can exceed 120°F in summer. Your cooling system, tires, oil, and battery are all under maximum stress. Carry extra water for both yourself and the radiator. Check tire pressure before you enter the desert because hot pavement will increase it further. Make sure your A/C is fully charged and functioning before you leave, not after you are two hours into the desert and the cabin hits 100°F.

Cell service is unreliable or nonexistent on many desert routes. A breakdown in the Mojave in July is not an inconvenience. It is a potential emergency. Prepare accordingly. Full tank of fuel. Extra water. Charged phone. And a vehicle that has been professionally inspected before departure.

Coastal Routes: Salt, Fog, and Tight Roads

The Pacific Coast Highway and other coastal routes are stunning but demanding on RVs. The roads are narrower than interstates with tighter turns, steeper grades, and more frequent braking. Salt air accelerates corrosion on brake components, electrical connections, and underbody metal. If you spend significant time on coastal routes, inspect your brake hardware and electrical connections more frequently for corrosion. Fog is common along the coast, especially in the morning, so make sure all your lights are functioning and your windshield wipers are in good condition.

Mountain Passes: Elevation, Temperature, and Engine Load

California mountain routes including the Sierra Nevada, Angeles Crest, and routes through Big Bear and Lake Arrowhead involve significant elevation changes. Your engine works harder at altitude because there is less oxygen in the air, which reduces power output. Turbocharged engines compensate better than naturally aspirated engines, but both feel the effects. The climb puts load on the cooling system and transmission. The descent puts load on the brakes. Temperature can drop 30 to 40 degrees between the base and the summit, which affects tire pressure. Check your tires when you reach the top because pressure drops with temperature.

Before Every California Road Trip

Run through the full pre-trip checklist: tires (pressure, age, condition), brakes (pad thickness, fluid level), all fluids (oil, coolant, transmission, brake, power steering), battery (voltage, terminals), belts and hoses (cracks, swelling, tension), lights (every exterior light), and wiper blades. If your trip includes the Grapevine, desert routes, or mountain passes, have the cooling system and brakes inspected professionally. A 30-minute inspection at Mike & Nick's can save you a tow truck call 300 miles from home.

Your RV's suspension is the system that keeps thousands of pounds of vehicle, cargo, and passengers stable, level, and controlled on the road. When the suspension is working properly, you barely notice it. When it starts to fail, you feel every bump, every crosswind, every lane change. And if you ignore the warning signs long enough, a worn suspension can make your RV dangerous to drive at highway speeds.

Warning Sign: Excessive Bouncing

If your RV bounces more than once or twice after hitting a bump, the shocks or struts are worn. Healthy shocks absorb the impact and return the vehicle to its normal ride height in one controlled motion. Worn shocks let the springs bounce freely, creating a rocking motion that gets worse at higher speeds and with heavier loads. This is more than a comfort issue. Excessive bouncing reduces tire contact with the road, increases stopping distance, and makes the vehicle harder to control in an emergency maneuver.

Warning Sign: Swaying in Crosswinds

Some degree of wind sensitivity is normal in a large vehicle with a tall profile. But if your RV feels like it is being pushed sideways by moderate crosswinds, or if you feel the rear of the vehicle drifting during gusts, the sway control components are likely worn. Sway bars, stabilizer links, and shock absorbers all work together to resist lateral movement. When any of these components wear out, the RV becomes more susceptible to wind, passing trucks, and sharp directional changes.

Warning Sign: Nose Diving When Braking

If the front of your RV dips noticeably when you apply the brakes, the front shocks or struts are not controlling the weight transfer properly. This forward pitch shifts more weight onto the front tires and less onto the rear, which reduces rear tire traction and increases stopping distance. On a heavy RV, this can be the difference between a controlled stop and a rear-end collision.

Warning Sign: Uneven Tire Wear

Tires that wear unevenly on the inside edge, outside edge, or in a cupping/scalloping pattern are almost always showing you a suspension problem. Worn ball joints, tie rods, shocks, or struts allow the wheel to sit at an improper angle, which causes the tire to contact the road unevenly. If you replace tires without fixing the underlying suspension issue, the new tires will wear the same way. Always inspect the suspension when you see abnormal tire wear.

Warning Sign: Leaning to One Side

If your RV sits lower on one side when parked on level ground, a spring on that side has sagged or broken. Springs lose tension over time, especially under the constant load of a heavy RV. A sagging spring shifts weight distribution, changes handling characteristics, and puts extra stress on the opposite side's suspension components. Springs should be replaced in pairs (both sides of the same axle) to maintain even ride height and balance.

Warning Sign: Clunking or Knocking Over Bumps

Clunking, knocking, or metallic rattling when driving over bumps, potholes, or uneven pavement usually indicates worn bushings, ball joints, stabilizer links, or shock mounts. These components use rubber or polyurethane to cushion metal-to-metal contact points. When the rubber deteriorates, metal components knock against each other. The noise itself is annoying, but the real concern is that worn bushings and joints allow excessive movement in the suspension, which reduces handling precision and can lead to accelerated wear on other components.

What Causes RV Suspension Problems?

Weight is the primary factor. RVs carry far more weight than passenger vehicles, and that constant load accelerates wear on every suspension component. Overloading beyond the RV's Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) is even more destructive. Age and mileage play a role, but on RVs that sit for extended periods, time-based degradation of rubber components (bushings, shock seals, spring isolators) is often more significant than mileage-based wear. Road conditions matter too. Rough roads, potholes, speed bumps taken too fast, and off-pavement driving all accelerate suspension wear. And in the Santa Clarita Valley, the heat accelerates rubber degradation in bushings and shock seals just like it does in belts and hoses.

How to Fix RV Suspension Problems

The fix depends on what is worn. Shocks and struts are the most commonly replaced suspension components on RVs and should be inspected at every service visit. Springs that have sagged below specification need replacement. Sway bars and stabilizer links are relatively affordable and make a dramatic difference in handling when replaced. Ball joints and tie rods are safety-critical components that should be replaced at the first sign of play or looseness. For RV owners who want to upgrade their ride quality and stability, aftermarket heavy-duty shocks, helper springs, air bag kits, and sway bar upgrades are available for most platforms.

At Mike & Nick's, we inspect RV suspension systems and show you exactly what is worn and what needs attention. We replace what is necessary, recommend upgrades when they make sense, and never push components you do not need. If your RV does not feel as stable as it used to, bring it in and let us put it on the lift.

Buying your first RV is exciting. The open road, the freedom, the campsite with a view. What most first-time RV owners do not expect is the maintenance. An RV is not a car you drive occasionally. It is a vehicle and a house combined, and both sides need care. The dealership probably told you about the warranty and the features. They probably did not tell you how much work it takes to keep an RV reliable, safe, and road-ready. This guide covers everything they left out.

Your RV Needs Service Even When You Are Not Driving It

This is the number one thing new RV owners get wrong. A car that sits in the garage for three months is fine. An RV that sits for three months has oil that is degrading from condensation and acid formation, a battery that is self-discharging, tires that are developing flat spots and UV damage, seals that are drying out, and coolant that is stagnating. Time-based maintenance intervals are more important than mileage-based intervals for most RVs because the average RV does not accumulate enough miles per year for mileage intervals to trigger. If your RV has been sitting for 6 months, it needs a full service before you drive it regardless of the odometer.

Follow the Chassis Manufacturer's Schedule, Not the RV Brand's

Your RV is built on a chassis made by Ford, GM, Freightliner, or another manufacturer. The engine, transmission, brakes, and drivetrain follow the chassis manufacturer's maintenance schedule, not the RV brand's marketing materials. Find the chassis owner's manual (it came with the RV, usually in a separate packet from the RV owner's manual) and follow its service intervals for oil changes, fluid services, brake inspections, and belt replacements. If you cannot find the chassis manual, your mechanic can look up the schedule based on the chassis model and engine.

Tires Are Not Like Car Tires

RV tires need to be replaced every 5 to 7 years regardless of how much tread is left. They degrade from UV exposure, ozone, and heat even when parked. Check the DOT date code on the sidewall to determine the manufacture date. Check pressure before every trip with a calibrated gauge. Never use passenger car tires on a trailer axle. Always use ST (Special Trailer) rated tires on towable RVs. And never assume the tires on a used RV are safe just because the seller said they were fine. Verify the age yourself.

Your Brakes Work Harder Than You Think

An RV weighs 10,000 to 30,000 pounds depending on the type. Every pound of that weight must be stopped by the brakes. That means brake pads, rotors, and drums wear faster on an RV than on a car, and the consequences of brake failure are far more severe. Inspect your brakes before every trip and at least once a year even if the RV has not been driven. On towable RVs with electric brakes, test the brake controller and have the magnets and shoes inspected annually. Trailer brakes are out of sight and out of mind for most owners, which is exactly why they fail.

Oil Changes Are Not Optional

Your RV engine is working harder than a car engine because it is hauling significantly more weight. Follow the chassis manufacturer's oil change interval. If you drive in what the manufacturer considers severe conditions (and most RV driving qualifies because of the weight, towing, and stop-and-go campground maneuvering), use the shorter interval. Synthetic oil is recommended for most RV engines because it handles heat better and lasts longer between changes. If your RV sits for more than 6 months, change the oil before driving it regardless of mileage.

How Much Should You Budget?

Industry experts recommend budgeting 1% to 3% of your RV's purchase price annually for maintenance. A $40,000 travel trailer should budget $400 to $1,200 per year. A $100,000 motorhome should budget $1,000 to $3,000 per year. A $200,000 Class A diesel pusher should budget $2,000 to $6,000 per year. This covers oil changes, tire service, brake inspections, fluid services, and one or two larger repairs or replacements. Set this money aside monthly so maintenance costs are planned expenses, not emergencies.

Find a Mechanic Before You Need One

Do not wait until something breaks to find a shop you trust. Build a relationship with a mechanic who knows RVs, has worked on your chassis platform, and will be honest about what your vehicle needs. A good mechanic will catch problems during routine maintenance before they become roadside breakdowns. They will show you what they find, explain what it means, and give you a prioritized plan so you know what needs attention now and what can wait until next season.

The Most Important Thing Nobody Tells You

An RV that is well maintained is a joy to own. You drive it with confidence. You park it at the campsite knowing everything works. You sleep in it knowing it will start in the morning. An RV that is neglected is a source of constant stress, surprise bills, and roadside breakdowns that ruin the trips it was supposed to make better. The difference between those two experiences is not the RV. It is the maintenance.

At Mike & Nick's Tire and Service, we work with first-time RV owners every week. We walk you through what your RV needs, show you what we find during inspections, and build a maintenance plan that fits your usage and your budget. If you just bought your first RV and you are not sure where to start, start here. Walk-ins welcome 7 days a week at 20529 Soledad Canyon Road in Canyon Country. Call us at (661) 252-4455.